A coalition led by the National Cotton Council has urged members of the U.S. House of Representatives to co-sponsor the Buying American Cotton Act.

The BACA bill—introduced by Representatives Greg Murphy (R-N.C.) and Terri Sewell (D-AL)—would require federal agencies to prioritize U.S.-grown cotton in textile and apparel procurement, effectively tightening Berry Amendment-style domestic sourcing rules.

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The Feb. 24 advocacy letter urges lawmakers to back the legislation.

“The strong list of signers on this letter reflects a true, bipartisan effort to enhance U.S. cotton consumption here in the U.S.,” said Nathan Reed, chairman of the National Cotton Council. “BACA will help stimulate demand for U.S. cotton, support our farmers, encourage new investment in U.S. textile mills and create jobs here at home.”

In the letter, the group describes the bill as an opportunity to strengthen the American cotton supply chain “from farm to retail,” arguing that federal procurement policy can reinforce domestic production while supporting producers, manufacturers and retailers tied to U.S.-grown fiber.

Comprising 78 undersigning organizations, it cut across agriculture, manufacturing and retail. Big brands like Gap, Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, Target, Under Armour and Victoria’s Secret are all there, alongside the U.S. Fashion Industry Association. But the bulk of the signatories actually come from state-level and commodity-backed groups: think Farm Bureau chapters, cotton growers and regional co-ops from Arizona to the Carolinas.

“On behalf of our members, we support the initiative by the U.S. cotton producers. Fashion brands and retailers work closely with the cotton producers and, of course, we are their customers,” said Julia Hughes, the USFIA’s president. “This is a creative effort to offer an incentive that benefits both the cotton producers and the retailers. To my knowledge, this type of program has never been tried before, and we are pleased to be a part of the effort.”

VS&Co. told Sourcing Journal that the publicly-traded lingerie retailer has partnered directly with U.S. farmers since 2021.

“Cotton remains a foundational part of both our product assortment and our brand,” a spokesperson for the Ohio-headquartered company said, noting that over one-third of its annual cotton consumption is sourced from family farms across the country. “We are proud of our cotton partnerships and will continue investing in American farmers.”

While producer and state-level agricultural groups make up the largest share of signatories, participation from major apparel brands signals cross-tier engagement in the legislation.

Liz Hershfield, executive director at Cotton USA, said brands already view U.S. cotton as a competitive sourcing advantage.

“Brands choose U.S. cotton because it delivers exceptional fiber quality, consistency and supply chain reliability at scale,” Hershfield told SJ. “The Buying American Cotton Act reinforces what leading retailers already recognize: sourcing U.S. cotton is both a strategic and economic advantage.”

Introduced in the Senate in May by Cindy Hyde-Smith, BACA would establish a tax credit for companies that sell products made with U.S.-grown cotton and domestically manufactured yarns and fabrics directly to American consumers. To qualify, businesses would need to verify U.S. origin, disclose the share of U.S.-grown cotton used and confirm where manufacturing occurred.

The proposal aims to channel investment back into U.S. textile mills, bolster domestic cotton demand and support manufacturing jobs. It would also create a financial incentive for brands and retailers to increase the percentage of U.S.-grown cotton in products sold nationwide. Last month, the National Cotton Council called on members of Congress to co-sponsor the measure, describing it as support for the entire cotton supply chain.

“American cotton growers, especially those in Eastern North Carolina, play a critical role in our nation’s farm economy,” Murphy said when introducing the bill. “Global competition has made survival for our cotton growers difficult, straining rural communities and destabilizing our supply chain.”

Drawing on more than three decades of experience in brand-side supply chain and sustainability roles, Hershfield said that legislation alone probably can’t move the needle.

“Policy incentives alone do not shift procurement at scale,” she said. “Brands move when performance, compliance and economics align—and when the operational infrastructure exists to support the shift.”

The proposed framework could create incentives, per Hershfield. Still, its impact will depend on whether companies can verify origin, substantiate sustainability metrics and execute reliably through existing mill relationships. Implementation, meanwhile, will hinge on whether brands have access to verified sustainability data and traceability systems that meet regulatory and sourcing requirements.

“Without credible traceability systems and trusted supplier relationships, even well-designed legislation becomes difficult to translate into purchasing decisions,” she said.